Lunch at Atria (CLOSED as of 5/09)

Restaurant Week may be over, but there are still some great deals to be had - especially for lunch. A friend and I are new fans of Atria's $27 three-course prix fixe.

Atria was partially fashioned from a landmarked Rockefeller townhouse, which was built in the early 1900's. After we waited in the sedate, low-ceilinged bar, we were surprised by the restaurant's breathtakingly modern dining room. A dramatic eight-story glass wall led up to a skylight. Rotating hanging sculptures, created from "found objects" in Brooklyn, evoked a sort of abstract planetarium. (According to our host, Paul, the view is even more impressive at night.) Apparently, the dining room was once a courtyard.

The stylishly plated French cuisine transfixed us as much as the decor. I was reminded of that much-missed favorite, Fleur De Sel. For an appetizer, I ordered a pale yellow fantasy of gnocchi with a delicate quail egg, Parmesan foam and a Parmesan tuile. My friend's matboucha, a traditional Moroccan dish, was a napoleon of tangy tomato, peppered ricotta and eggplant.

Feeling festive, I drained my glass of 100% Verdejo wine and then dug into my main course. The meaty fillet of lightly-browned hake benefited from a creamy cauliflower puree and tender heirloom vegetables. Frizzled chervil and leeks provided a tasty crunch. My friend's dish was more assertive but equally delicious. Crunchy-skinned roasted chicken with Brussels sprouts was served in a rich brown peppery jus over a bed of riebele, or grated German pasta. (Paul said that a fresh batch of this pasta is made every day.)

I was almost disappointed when dessert arrived, because our afternoon would soon be over. Chocolate mousse was a good choice for savoring slowly. It arrived with pink peppercorn whipped cream and strip of grapefruit gelee. The dessert summed up the whole delightful experience of Atria - tradition with a modern spark.

Atria: 13-15 West 54th St., (212) 315-9516.